Mulberry, founded by Roger Saul in Somerset in 1971, is Britain's largest luxury leather-goods maker, hand-producing around 50% of its "Icons" at two carbon-neutral Somerset factories (The Rookery and The Willows) and best known for the Bayswater, Alexa and Lily — bags that pair genuine Somerset craftsmanship with an accessible-luxury price point (roughly £595–£1,600) that undercuts French houses.
Mulberry offers strong everyday value and heritage credibility rather than Hermès/Chanel-style financial appreciation: most Mulberry bags depreciate on resale, though classics like the Bayswater, Alexa and Lily hold value best, and buying pre-loved is the smart-money route.
After years of financial turbulence — a 2012 stock peak, repeated profit warnings, and losses through 2024 and 2025 — Mulberry is mid-turnaround under CEO Andrea Baldo's "Back to the Mulberry Spirit" strategy, refocusing on Britishness, reviving the Roxanne and appointing Christopher Kane to relaunch ready-to-wear.
Mulberry was founded in 1971 by Roger Saul, then a young entrepreneur, with a £500 gift from his mother Joan, who co-founded the business with him. Saul, born July 1950 in Lottisham, Somerset, was the son of a father who worked for Clarks Shoes in Street, Somerset — giving him an early grounding in leather. The first products, made around the family kitchen table, were belts and chokers. Saul's sister designed the now-iconic Mulberry tree logo; both the tree and the name came from the mulberry trees Saul passed on his walk to school. In 1973, the Sauls opened their first factory in Chilcompton, Somerset. Saul was ousted from the company in a 2002 boardroom coup and later focused on his Sharpham Park organic spelt farm and the Kilver Court estate. Mulberry
Mulberry is the largest manufacturer of luxury leather goods in the UK, employing a team of around 600 craftsmen and craftswomen across two Somerset factories: The Rookery (its founding factory in Chilcompton, established 1989) and The Willows (opened 2014 in Bridgwater, built for around £5 million with UK government support). As Mulberry states on its craftsmanship page, "at The Rookery and The Willows, our two carbon-neutral factories in Somerset, we continue to make around 50% of our Icons, making us the largest manufacturer of luxury leather goods in the UK." The remainder of the range — including many men's bags and small leather goods — is produced by longstanding partner factories; Mulberry's current sourcing disclosures name the UK, Italy, Turkey, China and Vietnam. The company runs an apprenticeship programme with Bridgwater College to train new artisans. Mulberry
Mulberry's customer base spans aspirational younger buyers and established luxury consumers, with the brand's "It bag" status cemented by a roster of celebrity fans. Kate Moss was pivotal in enshrining the Bayswater in fashion history; other high-profile carriers include Alexa Chung, Sienna Miller, Blake Lively, Meghan Markle, Gemma Arterton, Eva Longoria, Olivia Palermo, Kate Middleton, Princess Eugenie and Fearne Cotton. In 2025–26, Wicked star Cynthia Erivo — a born-and-bred Londoner who has spoken about longing for a Mulberry as a young woman — fronted campaigns for the revived Roxanne and the anniversary Bayswater.
Roger Saul led design in the early decades. His successors as Design/Creative Directors have each reshaped the brand: Scott Henshall (recruited 2000), Nicholas Knightly, Stuart Vevers, and — most consequentially — Emma Hill (2007–2013), who created the Alexa, Del Rey, Tilly and Willow and is widely credited with turning Mulberry into an international powerhouse. Johnny Coca, poached from Céline, served as creative director from July 2015 to March 2020, launching the Amberley and Iris and restoring the 1970s tree logo. In March 2026, Mulberry named British designer Christopher Kane creative director of a relaunched women's ready-to-wear line (debuting September 2026 during London Fashion Week, in stores January 2027). Wikipedia + 2
Mulberry is a British luxury lifestyle brand best known for women's leather handbags that blend "town and country" — the styles associated with English rural pursuits (hunting, shooting, fishing) reinterpreted with a fashion-forward edge. This identity was dubbed "Le Style Anglais" as early as 1975. Bags are defined by classic silhouettes, supple leathers and signature details, above all the Mulberry Tree logo and the Postman's Lock — a twist-lock closure that traces to the brand's earliest hardware and appears on its most iconic styles. Mulberry
Mulberry's signature leathers include Natural Vegetable Tanned (NVT) leather — used on the classic Bayswater, it ages and darkens into a unique patina — plus heavy-grain and classic-grain calf leather (durable, structured), glossy goat, silky calf, and soft Nappa. The classic Bayswater is famously unlined, showing raw suede inside; other bags use canvas or tree-logo jacquard linings. Since 2022, 100% of Mulberry's leather comes from environmentally accredited tanneries across the UK, Italy, Germany, Spain and Turkey. Hardware is solid brass; zips are typically RiRi or Mulberry-branded. Mulberry + 2
Bayswater (2003): the structured, double-handled flagship with Postman's Lock; Mulberry's bestseller and, in many tellings, the original "It bag."
Roxanne (2003/2004): a utilitarian, buckle-and-rivet satchel; relaunched as a full family in 2025.
Alexa (2010): a slouchy, briefcase-inspired satchel named for Alexa Chung.
Lily (2010): a compact chain-and-leather-strap shoulder bag, day-to-night.
Willow Tote (2012/2013): a tote with a zip-off front clutch.
Amberley (2017) and Iris: introduced under Johnny Coca; the Amberley is an equestrian-inspired satchel.
Antony: a unisex postman's-satchel messenger, one of Mulberry's longest-standing icons.
Islington, Softie (pillowy quilted Nappa), Bella, Lana and Pimlico: newer additions to the range.
Mulberry occupies a distinctive "accessible luxury" niche: genuinely British-made craftsmanship and heritage at a price point (broadly £595–£1,600 for bags) well below French houses like Chloé, Céline, Dior and Chanel. Its combination of a real UK manufacturing base, B Corp certification (2024) and a "Made to Last" repair-and-resale ethos differentiates it from competitors that manufacture largely in continental Europe or Asia. Mulberry
At The Rookery and The Willows, each bag can pass through the hands of up to 30 skilled craftspeople, from leather specialists who select hides, to cutting technicians, stitching technicians and panel assemblers. The relaunched Roxanne, for instance, is made up of 44 individual pattern pieces. Mulberry has moved to "linear" lean-manufacturing production lines dedicated to a single style at a time, blending machine efficiency with hand skill. The factories are carbon-neutral, with UK-operations and purchased-leather emissions balanced through World Land Trust carbon credits. FashionNetworkStylebubble
Key authentication checks: the heat-stamped leather tab (tree logo or "Mulberry" wordmark in a consistent sans-serif font, centred and even); the brass disc engraved with the tree, with a serial number usually stamped on the underside (note: some older or outlet models legitimately lack a serial number); delicate negative space between the tree's leaves; neat, even, uniformly sized stitching and consistent edge finishing; solid, heavy hardware (fakes are often hollow, too shiny or unevenly engraved); and RiRi or Mulberry-branded zips. Certain serial numbers are known to recur on counterfeits. Leather weight, texture and smell are also reliable tells. Sunday Woman + 7
New Mulberry bags in the UK broadly run from about £595 (small styles, sale pieces) to £1,600+, with the classic Bayswater around £1,195–£1,395 and a zipped Bayswater around £995–£1,195. On the secondhand market, Mulberry — unlike Hermès or Chanel — generally depreciates: used Bayswater bags commonly list well below half of current retail on eBay and resale platforms, and even Mulberry's own resale channel, The Mulberry Exchange, offers pre-loved classics at a fraction of retail (for example, an oak small classic-grain Bayswater priced around £595 versus roughly £895–£1,395 new). The upside is that buying pre-loved lets someone else absorb the steep initial depreciation. Within the range, the Bayswater, Alexa and Lily hold value and sell most reliably. PurseForum
Mulberry recommends regular care with protective leather gels/sprays (it specifically references Collonil Leather Gel) to improve water resistance. Keep leather away from heavy rain; blot any water immediately. Beware colour transfer — dark denim can mark light leathers and vice versa, which is not covered under the Mulberry Care Policy. Crucially, Mulberry operates a Lifetime Service Centre in Somerset offering artisanal repair and restoration, and stockpiles hardware and leather so even decades-old bags can be revived — a central plank of its "Made to Last" philosophy.
The core argument is value-for-craft and heritage. For roughly £1,000–£1,400, a buyer gets a genuinely British-made leather bag, hand-assembled in Somerset from accredited-tannery leather, from a 50-plus-year-old heritage house — where comparable "quiet luxury" bags from Chloé, Céline or Dior cost two to three times as much. Reviewers repeatedly note that Mulberry offers craftsmanship and leather quality rivalling bags priced far higher. Mulberry also leads on sustainability (B Corp status, carbon-neutral factories, repair and resale services), which increasingly matters to conscious buyers. Bayareafashionista
Mulberry is best understood as an emotional and practical investment rather than a financial one. It does not command the resale premiums of Hermès or Chanel; most Mulberry bags lose value. But its classics are versatile, durable and repairable, and the "cost per wear" on a Bayswater or Lily used daily for years is compelling. Buyers seeking appreciation should look to Hermès; buyers seeking a beautiful, hardwearing everyday luxury with British provenance should look to Mulberry.
The Bayswater endures because it is the archetypal British work-to-weekend bag — structured, roomy, unfussy. The Alexa rides on nostalgia and the return of 2010s style. The Lily wins on versatility and its lower entry price. The Roxanne's 2025 revival taps Y2K nostalgia. Postman's Lock styles carry the strongest brand equity and resale liquidity.
Mulberry began in 1971 at Roger Saul's kitchen table and grew through the 1970s and 1980s as a maker of leather "poacher" bags, belts and English country-styled goods, earning the "Le Style Anglais" tag in 1975 and multiple Queen's Awards for Export. A Mulberry Home interiors line launched in 1990. The company floated on the London Stock Exchange's AIM in 1996 under the ticker MUL. New investment from Singapore's Ong family (Christina Ong and Ong Beng Seng, via Challice Ltd) reshaped ownership, and Saul was ousted in 2002. Sharphampark
The Emma Hill era (2007–2013) drove Mulberry's greatest commercial success. The Alexa (2010), launched at around £750, became a recession-era hit, and Mulberry's shares rose sharply — peaking at an all-time high of 2,500p (£25) in May 2012. For the year ending March 2012, as reported by Drapers, "pre-tax profits swell 54% from £23.3m in 2011 to £36m this year" while "total revenues soared 38% from £121.6m last year to £168.5m," with a gross margin of 66.2% and international sales of £65.2m (up 61%). The share performance was extraordinary: as the Motley Fool noted in March 2013, "the shares have increased more than 17-fold in the last five years since 2009's low of 60 pence." Salad
Then came the fall: a bid by CEO Bruno Guillon (from Hermès France) to push the brand upmarket with higher prices alienated customers; profit warnings followed from October 2012, creative director Emma Hill departed in June 2013, and the shares slid. FashionNetwork
Under CEO Thierry Andretta (from 2015) and creative director Johnny Coca (2015–2020), Mulberry pursued international expansion and a lifestyle repositioning, but performance stayed volatile. In February 2020, Mike Ashley's Frasers Group bought an initial stake, later building to around 37%. The pandemic prompted Mulberry to exit licensed ready-to-wear and footwear (via Onward Luxury Group) in 2020. The brand launched its "Made to Last Manifesto" in 2021 for its 50th anniversary and achieved B Corp certification in 2024. For the 52 weeks ended 30 March 2024, Mulberry reported an underlying loss before tax of £22.6m (versus a £2.5m profit the prior year) and a reported pre-tax loss of £34.1m (versus a £13.2m profit), with group revenue down 4% to £152.8m.
In 2024, Frasers made two takeover approaches. Per Reuters, Frasers "raised its proposal to 150 pence per Mulberry share, valuing the brand at 111 million pounds," after an earlier 130p/£83m bid; both were rejected by majority owner Challice — described as "the vehicle of Singapore-based property tycoon Ong Beng Seng and his wife Christina which owns 56.4%" — with Mulberry's board calling the offer "untenable." Andrea Baldo, former Ganni CEO, took over as chief executive in September 2024, launching the "Back to the Mulberry Spirit" turnaround in January 2025 — refocusing on the UK, cutting costs (including roughly 85 head-office roles), closing loss-making Asian stores, adding wholesale partners (John Lewis, Liberty, Harvey Nichols, Flannels, Nordstrom), and raising £20 million. For the full year (FY25), Mulberry's results showed group revenue declining to £120.4 million (from £152.8m), an underlying loss before tax of £23.7m and a reported loss before tax of £31.8m — underlining that the turnaround remains early-stage. In March 2026, Christopher Kane was named creative director of a returning women's ready-to-wear line. Today Mulberry remains AIM-listed with a market capitalisation in the tens of millions of pounds — a fraction of its 2012 peak, when the £25 share price implied a valuation well over £1 billion. WWD + 2
Mulberry's design DNA rests on the tension between English country heritage and modern fashion — "heritage meets rebellion." The early decades emphasised rugged, utilitarian country bags. The Roxanne (2003) marked a turn toward heavy hardware and anti-logo, texture-rich design — a reaction against early-2000s logomania. Emma Hill refined a "cool Britannia" language of slouchy satchels and It-bag desirability. Johnny Coca reasserted "Britishness," reviving the archival 1970s tree logo, introducing lower price points and building bag families (Amberley, Iris). Baldo's era emphasises simplification, quarterly newness, and a "Return to Somerset" narrative that foregrounds the factories and craftspeople — reflected in Tim Walker campaigns shot at The Rookery.
Bayswater — The definitive Mulberry. Structured classic-grain or NVT leather, double rolled handles, Postman's Lock, adjustable belted sides, metal base feet, often unlined with raw suede interior. Endlessly versatile (office to evening), durable, and the most resale-liquid Mulberry. The 2026 Soft Bayswater updates the silhouette with a slouchier shape and elongated straps. Grazia Daily
Alexa — A slouchy, briefcase-derived satchel with braided top handle and detachable strap; casual-chic and everyday-practical. Discontinued in 2016 and relaunched for the 50th anniversary in 2021. Beloved but historically more trend-sensitive than the Bayswater. Handbag Clinic
Lily — Compact shoulder/evening bag with woven leather-and-chain strap and Postman's Lock; the most affordable entry to the icons and a versatile day-to-night piece. Basis of 2022's carbon-neutral "Lily Zero."
Roxanne — Utilitarian buckle-and-rivet satchel; the original weighed around 1.4kg empty with 62 exposed rivets. Relaunched in 2025 as a streamlined family (Roxanne, Small Roxanne, Roxanne Shoulder Bag, Mini) from £795, made of 44 pattern pieces. PurseBlogMulberry
Willow Tote — Clever tote with a fully zip-off front clutch (two bags in one); praised for integration but criticised on launch as pricey (it debuted at around $2,600 in the US market).
Softie — A soft, pillowy quilted collection in environmentally accredited Nappa leather with recycled nylon lining; tactile and casual.
Amberley — Equestrian-inspired satchel with distinctive front turn-lock fastening, top handle and cross-body strap; widely reviewed as excellent value with thick, durable, soft leather. The "Lowest Carbon" Amberley capsule used Muirhead/Scottish Leather Group hides sourced from the UK and Ireland.
Islington — A refined bucket/Postman's Lock style; a quieter, elegant option.
Antony — Mulberry's classic unisex messenger, inspired by traditional postman's satchels, finished with the Postman's Lock; available Mini to Messenger. Basis of the Mulberry x Paul Smith collaboration.
Against Longchamp and Coach, Mulberry sits higher — more heritage and, for its UK-made classics, arguably better leather, though Longchamp is praised for elegant, well-priced leather and Coach for value durability. Against Mansur Gavriel, Mulberry offers more history and hardware character. Against Burberry, the two are peer British heritage houses, though Burberry is larger and more apparel-led. Against higher houses — Chloé, Céline, Dior, Chanel — Mulberry is markedly cheaper and less of a financial "investment," but delivers comparable craftsmanship for everyday use at a fraction of the price. The trade-off: those French houses hold resale value far better (per resale-market data, Chanel and Louis Vuitton retain a high share of their value, while Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags can exceed retail), whereas Mulberry's appeal is use-value, not appreciation. Mumsnet
Mulberry's present moment is defined by Baldo's turnaround and a reassertion of Britishness. The Roxanne relaunched in September 2025 with a surrealist Tim Walker campaign starring Cynthia Erivo. A "Return to Somerset" brand campaign celebrates the factories and artisans. The brand marked its 55th year and five years of "Made to Last" with a British Pasture Leather collection (available from 28 April 2026, priced £495–£2,245) using a fully British, field-to-factory leather supply chain. Recent collaborations include Paul Smith, Rejina Pyo, Stefan Cooke (reworking pre-loved bags) and Mira Mikati. Christopher Kane's ready-to-wear appointment signals ambitions beyond accessories, with his debut collection due in September 2026. Who What WearMulberry
Mulberry's "Made to Last Manifesto" (2021) commits to a regenerative, circular model and net-zero emissions by 2035 — 15 years ahead of the global 2050 target. It achieved 100% environmentally accredited leather sourcing (2022), B Corp certification (2024), and SBTi-validated near-term targets (April 2024). Circular services include the Lifetime Service Centre (repairs), The Mulberry Exchange (authenticated resale) and Buy-Back (trade-in for credit). Mulberry + 2
Mulberry is a growing but discount-driven resale category. It does not appear in the major value-retention indices dominated by Hermès, Chanel and Louis Vuitton, and most Mulberry bags sell secondhand below retail. Used Bayswater totes commonly list well under half of current retail on eBay; The Mulberry Exchange and platforms like Fashionphile and The RealReal offer pre-loved Mulberry at steep discounts. Within the brand, the Bayswater, Alexa and Lily hold value and sell most reliably; limited editions are more variable. The clear takeaway: buy pre-loved to sidestep depreciation, and buy classics if resale liquidity matters.
Buy new from Mulberry's own boutiques and mulberry.com, and from authorised UK wholesale partners: John Lewis, Liberty, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, Harrods, Flannels and Fenwick. For discounts, Mulberry factory outlets (including near Somerset) and seasonal sales at authorised retailers are reliable. For pre-loved, use The Mulberry Exchange (brand-authenticated), or reputable authenticating resellers such as Vestiaire Collective, The RealReal, Fashionphile and specialist UK dealers — always checking authentication before buying on open marketplaces like eBay.
For a first Mulberry / best all-rounder: buy a classic-grain Bayswater in Oak or Black. It is the most versatile, durable and resale-liquid choice.
On a tighter budget: choose a Lily or small Amberley, or buy a pre-loved classic through The Mulberry Exchange to avoid first-owner depreciation.
If you want appreciation, not just use: Mulberry is the wrong brand — look to Hermès or Chanel. Choose Mulberry for craftsmanship, Britishness and cost-per-wear.
Protect your purchase: apply Collonil gel, avoid rain and colour transfer, keep the dust bag, box and receipt (complete packaging materially aids resale), and use the Somerset Lifetime Service Centre for repairs. Luxury Evermore
Benchmarks that would change the advice: if Mulberry's turnaround restores desirability and full-price sell-through (watch for a return to profit and sustained wholesale growth beyond the FY25 loss of £23.7m), resale values for current models could firm; if losses persist, deeper discounting will further soften resale.
Some 2026 collection and campaign details reflect brand announcements and forward-dated launches (e.g. Christopher Kane's September 2026 debut, the April 2026 British Pasture Leather collection); these are planned/announced rather than fully realised at the time of writing.
Prices fluctuate by season, colour and limited edition, and differ between the UK and other markets; treat figures as indicative.
Resale figures are drawn from individual listings and expert commentary rather than a single authoritative retention index, as Mulberry is not systematically tracked by the major resale-value reports; Mulberry is best understood as generally depreciating, unlike Hermès/Chanel.
The frequently cited "3099%" share-price rise could not be independently verified; the confirmed figures are the 2,500p (£25) May 2012 peak and an approximately 17-fold rise from the 2009 low of around 60p. TradingViewfool
Manufacturing-location details vary slightly between sources and over time: Mulberry's current sourcing disclosures name the UK, Italy, Turkey, China and Vietnam, while earlier reports also cited Spain; roughly 50% of bags (its core "Icons") are UK-made.
SOURCE: The London Prat